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If your bucket list includes a hop across the pond, you’ll probably visit London and likely Edinburgh, the capitals of England and Scotland. Both cities offer an intoxicating mix of delights — iconic landmarks, picturesque mews and acclaimed shopping.
Above all, eating and drinking will be on the minds of any traveler with a stomach — and a dizzying array of memorable food options exists. It’s a great problem to have, but where does one start?
After living in London and thereafter visiting twice a year — folding in Edinburgh because our kids attended university in Scotland — I’ve got some recommendations to help get you started as you plan your trip.
EDINBURGH
The Ensign Ewart
This 1680s pub in the shadows of Edinburgh’s ancient castle had a fiddler playing when I was there last summer, and I was immediately hooked. It’s dark and cozy, a classic historic pub that oozes with authentic vibes — remarkable considering it’s on the touristy Royal Mile. Duck into The Ensign Ewart when you tire of sights and shopping and need to relax with a pint.
Southern Cross Cafe
On the oft-photographed Cockburn Street, this cafe is ideal for a healthy breakfast and lunch — from a soup, salad or sandwich to coffee with a homemade, warm pastry. The cafe is open 9 a.m. - 5 p.m., serving wholesome locally-sourced food. What they’re most proud of is displayed in the window: Luscious freshly baked cakes and pastries. They also offer cocktails, beer and wine. Find a seat outside on this scenic Instagrammable street for an afternoon tipple.
The Outsider
Discover a restaurant that demonstrates that Scotland is a land for foodies. Located just off the Royal Mile between the Grassmarket and the famous Greyfriars Kirk, this upmarket dining experience provides a special-occasion evening — rich with ambiance and expressive food. The space has an elevated, modern design and the kitchen boasts a savvy culinary program, serving dishes such as trout with caper risotto, pan-roasted duck and rib-eye steak. I recommend a slow dining experience, kicking off a long, lovely evening with wine, crusty bread and olives.
Chez Jules
This gem is easy to miss, and without a local’s tip, I’m not sure we would have ever discovered it. On my first visit, descending into this cozy, candle-lit French cellar bistro was truly bewitching. Located on Hanover Street in one of New Town’s regal townhouses, it occupies the garden space just below ground level. The food is outstanding and the prices are affordable. Find your best value at lunchtime, when you can savor three courses for £12.90 (around $16). For example, choose a soup or salad, a main of skirt steak and pommes frites or steamed mussels and a dessert. The popular, charming bistro runs a bustling operation, and you’ll want to call ahead for reservations.
Wellington Coffee
Also in New Town, find this tiny atmospheric coffee shop to warm yourself and rest your feet. Racking up a pile of beautiful memories, I’ve had countless tasty coffees here, most recently with my adult daughter, who now lives in Edinburgh. Tip: Their freshly baked scones with a pat of butter are divine.
LONDON
Colbert
Experience an exquisite breakfast, lunch or dinner at this refined seen-and-be-seen Parisian café anchoring Sloan Square in the heart of Chelsea. It’s worth keeping your eyes open for famous people — I once spotted John Cleese (Monty Python). Classic French fare includes showy eggs Benedict, escargots, Salade Niçoise and duck, and veal bourguignon, but also a prix-fixe menu. Afterward, wander the lovely streets oozing with classic London charm, and don’t miss the nearby Pavilion Road, a pedestrian-only alley brimming with shops.
Pembroke Primrose Hill
Put on your walking shoes and stroll across Regent’s Park to Primrose Hill for amazing city views before tucking into classic pub grub at this neighborhood institution. Order the halloumi fries for the table and for a main, you can’t go wrong with a burger. If the weather is kind, find a table outside in the beer garden. It’s great for kids and dogs, and I love being surrounded by families who live in the area.
Dukes Bar
Off Piccadilly and near Jermyn Street, home to bespoke tailoring and luxury goods, enter through Dukes Hotel into the old-world bar where it’s believed Ian Fleming was inspired to craft the classic James Bond martini. Indulge in a martini experience, where a martini mixologist arrives at your table with a fully-loaded bar cart to mix your drinks. Martinis are not cheap, but the unique experience in the iconic setting is worth every pound.
The Churchill Arms
Though this pub is part of Fuller’s vast pub network, it truly stands out because every inch is decked out with Winston Churchill memorabilia. I think of it as a watering hole, but they do offer a well-known Thai menu, a fun plot twist for a pub. Describing this pub as buzzy is an understatement. There’s often no seat to be found, so you’ll be hanging outdoors with the locals at the stand-up bar — a genuine British experience.
Monocle Café
On the architecturally inspiring Chiltern Street in Marylebone, grab a flat white or espresso on the sidewalk and people-watch. This small hole-in-the-wall café, an extension of Monocle magazine, is as elegant as it is simple. Located in my old London neighborhood, it’s a fave I come back to — whether I’m catching up on email, reading or with a friend.
Photo credits (from top): Alamy Stock Photo; Marek Perkons/Shutterstock; Courtesy Dukes Hotel
Have any of you traveled to London or Edinburgh? What did you think of the food? Let us know in the comments below.
